From Tokyo, it’s not too difficult to go see Mount Fuji. During my first trip to Japan, I spent two days in Kawaguchiko to see the majestic Fuji-Yama. In 2018, I wanted to see it from another angle and opted for Hakone. To go there from Tokyo, you take the metro, the train, a cable car and the ropeway.
Black Eggs And White Fuji
I took the ropeway to Owakudani, which literally means “Great Boiling Valley“. When I arrived at the top, I was impressed by the fumes and the strange colours. It looked a bit like a post-apocalyptic world. This volcanic valley located in Hakone has active sulphur vents and that’s why some of the ground has a pale yellow colour.
There, you can buy black eggs. This is THE specialty! These eggs are hard-boiled in the hot springs. Because they go through this process, the eggs turn black and smell a bit sulphuric. Why would you buy and eat one? Well, because the legend says that eating a black egg adds seven years to your life. (FYI, I didn’t buy one.)
From Owakudani, I could see a beautiful Mount Fuji in between clouds. It looked like it was floating in the sky. What a sight! I feel lucky that I could see it like this.
A Boat Trip On Lake Ashi
After enjoying these views from the top, I took the ropeway to go to Lake Ashi, a crater lake. There, you can hop on a pirate ship to go on a boat trip. It is a very touristy thing to do, but so are most of the activities in Hakone. If you decide to visit Hakone, be prepared to see many people.
Once, I was walking in the forest and I saw a very long queue. I wondered what was going on. People were waiting patiently to take numerous shots of themselves in front of a red Torii. I admired their politeness, but couldn’t understand the need to queue for so long for a picture. I took a picture of the torii from far away. Indeed, it was beautiful, but I didn’t care if I was in the picture or not. Anyway, this was just to give you an example of what you can expect in Hakone. Tourists are not everywhere and I never felt overwhelmed, but the main attractions are usually packed.
The views were great and the trees had nothing to envy Canadian forests. Autumn colours were stunning. I enjoyed the boat trip even though the weather was a bit cold.
A Walk in the Hakone Visitor Center
As the sun was setting down, I went for a walk in the Hakone Visitor Center and it was amazing. The colours of the skies and of the water changed as the temperature went down. I managed to arrive at the top of the hill right on time to catch the sunset. There, I had to restrain myself from taking a thousand pictures, because the view was incredibly beautiful. Mount Fuji was there, enveloped in pink clouds, and the lake was reflecting the last colours of the day.
On my way back, I walked in the middle of an alley of old cedars and I didn’t know what to feel. Still emotional from the sunset, this alley seemed magical (I know, I use this adjective a lot here, but Japan has this kind of vibe). But, at the same time, it was getting darker and darker and I was alone, so I started to feel like I shouldn’t be alone in the forest.
I accelerated the pace and finally found a bus stop. There, I chatted with a German mother visiting her son who lives in Japan. I felt safer and took the bus back to my hostel. Only one restaurant was open, but it was good (grilled scallops). I even had two glasses of plum wine: yummy!
Second Day in Hakone starting in Gora Park and Hakone Open Air Museum
Gora Park is a cute little park in Hakone. If you like flowers, you should check it out. This is not a must-do (nothing is if we’re honest, we all have our own interests), but this is a nice walk. Fun fact: this is Japan’s first garden to be made in the French style (1914).
Hakone Open Air Museum
This giant open air museum is very impressive. Indeed, the size of the park, its well-thought design and its extensive collection make it one interesting stop for people who love art. It includes pieces by Picasso, Moore, Rodin, Miro and many other great artists. Whether the artworks are outside or inside, they are always placed in an intelligent way. It takes a few hours to explore the park and even more if you want to see the details of each piece.
I didn’t really have a favourite, I loved most of the collections and exhibitions. However, I was particularly surprised by the Symphonic Structure. This 18 meters tower is covered with colourful stained glass, and the light coming through the glass makes the climb to the top quite extraordinary. From its top, you can enjoy the view of the mountains of Hakone.
I also liked the Woods of Net, even though I was disappointed that only children can climb on it. And the giant silver marbles in the park too. And the ballerinas of Giacomo Balla. Well, as I said, I liked most of the pieces.
Hakone Jinja and Sengoku-kogen
Hakone Jinja is a Japanese Shinto shrine on the shores of Lake Ashi. You’ll have to climb a few steps to visit it, but it is a nice stop, I promise. The shrine is not as impressive as some other Shinto shrines I visited in Japan, but is interesting and lovely, and its location next to the lake and in the forest adds to its beauty.
After that, I did a walk on the shores and then another cruise on a boat to see the other side of the lake. To end the day, before going back to Tokyo, I decided to head to the pampas grass fields of Hakone.
I took the bus to the Sengoku-kogen stop to see the Sengokuhara Pampas Grass Fields. The tall grasses are called “susuki” in Japanese and reminded me of wheat. Nothing extraordinary. And yet. It concluded nicely my day with a short hike on the path traced in the middle of the fields. The sunset made the grass look perfect. Once again, I spent a lot of time taking pictures and looking at it.
In Japan, I feel like people really take the time to look around themselves. This is partly why I love this country so much. There, I have some peace of mind and I can really enjoy simple things. I’m trying to do the same at home and keep my eyes peeled for the everyday wonders.
To see more photos of Japan, you can visit the gallery Japan.
