After visiting the Cinque Terre in April 2022, I made my way back to France, passing through Ventimiglia, and found Nice and its sunshine again in the early afternoon. Before heading to my airbnb close to the train station, I stopped by the tourist information center to ask what there was to do in town. I figured a day and a half would be short to see everything, but according to the woman at the desk, it was almost too much time. On one hand, that was a little disappointing. On the other, I was so tired that it was oddly reassuring.
Wandering Through The Old Town In Nice
After dropping my things at the airbnb and resisting the urge to nap, I went out to explore. I was won over almost instantly by the warm colors and the checkerboard ground of Place Masséna (that looks like it was drawn by a drunk artist because of its irregular patterns). Even though I had crossed a border, Nice still felt like Italy in disguise: the old town breathes the same influences as Genoa.
I wandered a bit at random through the narrow streets before deciding to climb to the top of the city for the view and the sunset, just in case the weather turned the following days. I got there faster than expected. A newlywed couple was posing for photos nearby, and they looked incredibly stylish.
PRACTICAL INFO: Remember, this is the South of France, so maybe avoid visiting Nice in the middle of Summer, or be prepared to be really hot! Prefer May or September for a nice (see what I did there?) experience.
Waiting For A Sunset That Never Came
I sat down at a table and ate an ice cream while an old woman drank tea alone across from me, muttering to herself and seemingly cursing everyone in sight. I couldn’t help thinking that could be me one day, lol.
The sunset was still far off, and I got bored waiting, so I decided I’d watch it from somewhere else. I made my way back down to Bellanda Tower, which offered a nice view of its own.
Then I continued all the way down toward the port, where a row of gleaming old Citroën 2CVs caught my eye. I sat on the jetty near the Nice lighthouse and watched storm clouds roll in. They made for a beautiful contrast, but they also meant the sunset probably wasn’t happening. So I headed back into the old town in search of dinner.
Everything looked a little too expensive, and then it started raining, so I ducked into a McDonald’s to shelter and eat a salad instead. Back at the airbnb, my host surprised me with a tray of tea and homemade pastries. Incredibly kind, and delicious too!
PRACTICAL INFO: The outdoor terrace next to the Bellanda tower is accessible after climbing the many steps of the “Lesage” staircase (or, in my case, by going down after climbing to the top of Nice). There’s also a paid elevator at the foot of the tower. This outdoor terrace, with its view over the Baie des Anges, remains freely and openly accessible. Don’t confuse it with the Bellandarium (the museum inside the tower): to enter that one, you’ll have to pay, and it has specific hours. I suggest checking online for the exact times, as they may vary depending on the season, and it’s also closed on some days, like Mondays.
Market Day And May Day
The next morning, dressed and ready, I went looking for breakfast, hoping the market might have something. Sprigs of lily of the valley were on full display at the flower market on Cours Saleya, a nod to the first of May tradition.
French Breakfast In Nice
I settled on a café across from the market instead: a croissant, bread and butter, a cappuccino, and orange juice. I had planned to buy fruit too, but nothing looked ready to eat, so I gave in to a batch of orange blossom navettes. They weren’t as good as the ones I’d had in Avignon, but they were still a pleasant treat.
I continued through the old town, livelier now on a Sunday morning. An older woman walking her dog made me laugh when I overheard her say, “I know you’ve had enough, and so have I.” They both seemed eager to get home.
Up To Castel Des Deux Rois Park
I admired the original shop signs and the trompe-l’oeil details on the buildings as I made my way toward Castel des Deux Rois Park, hoping to give my legs a break. Of course, resting meant climbing several flights of stairs first. The view over the city made it worthwhile, and I sat on the grass to finally eat the pizza I had bought at the Italian border. The wind picked up quickly, though, so I headed back down toward the sunnier, calmer streets below.
PRACTICAL INFO: The Castel Des Deux Rois park is open every day from 8am, closing at 6pm, 7pm, or 8pm depending on the season. Check online to be sure.
Along The Port Of Nice And The Promenade
Back near the water, the colors of the boats sparkling in the sunlight were beautiful. A few men tended to their vessels while opera music played nearby. I sat and watched the boats, and the fish darting beneath them, for a while before continuing on.
Eventually I reached the Promenade des Anglais, where a costumed demonstration was gathering near the sundial. A May Day march? Something tied to the elections? I never quite figured it out, though one sign referencing the president suggested politics were part of the mix.
I kept walking along the beaches, briefly considering wading in, but the pebbles and the steep drop toward the water talked me out of it. Instead, I headed back into the city center to visit Saint Nicholas Orthodox Cathedral. It did not disappoint. The interior was just as striking, though photos weren’t allowed inside.
PRACTICAL INFO: The cathedral is open every day, from 10am to 5 or 6pm during the week, depending on the season. Different hours apply on Sundays. Note that it is closed between noon and 2pm. Check online to be sure. The entrance is free.
A Rainy Ending, A Full Stomach
To close out the day and dodge the rain, I went to the movies. On the walk back, I stopped at a Lebanese restaurant I had spotted earlier. With it being May 1st, most places were closed, leaving me with a choice between that and the usual fast food chains. It turned out to be a great call.
I came back to the airbnb thoroughly full, which made it all the more bittersweet when my host and his daughter showed up with a plate of homemade couscous. I had to turn it down. No regrets though, the restaurant meal had already been more than worth it.
I left bright and early on the next morning.
So that’s it for Nice. It’s not a guide per se, but it gives you some ideas about what you can do in less than 2 days. I haven’t done a walking tour, but there are some you can do. For example, I saw that SANDEMANs is doing two tours. I have done tours with them in other places and I was satisfied.
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